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Восьмитысячники Р. Месснера  Просмотрен 171

 

Нангапарбат

по Рупальской стене, первопрохождение, 8125 м (Высоты вершин выверены по источникам, учитывающим измерения последнего времени.) , 27.06.70

Манаслу

по ЮЗ склону, первопрохождение, 8163 м, 25.04.72

Хидден-Пик (Гашербрум I)

по С стене, 8068 м, 10.08.75

Эверест (Джомолунгма)

по ЮВ гребню, 8848 м, 8.05.78

Нангапарбат

повторно по стене Диамира, первопрохождение, абсолютное соло, 9.08.78

К-2 (Чогори)

по гребню Абруццкого, 8611 м, 12.07.79

Эверест

повторно по С склону и кулуару Нортона, абсолютное соло, 20.08.80

Шиша Пангма

8046 м, 28.05.81

Канченджанга

8586 м, 6.05.82

Гашербрум II

8035 м, 24.06.82

Броуд-Пик (Фальхан Кангри)

8047 м, 3.08.82

Чо Ойю

по ЮВ стене, 8201 м, 5.05.83

Гашербрум II

повторно, 25.06.84

Хидден-Пик,

повторно, 28.06.84

Аннапурна

8091 м, 24.04.85

Дхаулагири

8167 м, 15.05.85

Макалу

8463 м, 26.09.86

Лхоцзе

8516 м, 16.10.86

 

Цитаты в первых главах книги, выделенные курсивом, взяты из следующих книг, любезно предоставленных автору издательством Бенно Швабе в Базеле: Ч. К. Говард-Бери «Эверест – разведка 1921 года», Ч. Г. Брус «Эверест – наступление 1922 года», Э. Ф. Нортон «К вершине Эвереста – восхождение 1924 года». Глава «Морис Уилсон» представляет краткое изложение книги Д. Робертса «Я поднимусь на Эверест в одиночку – рассказ о Морисе Уилсоне», Лондон, 1975.

 

Список литературы об Эвересте

 

Ahluwalia H.P.S., Higher than Everest. Memoirs of a Mountaineeer. Delhi: Vikas, 1973. (в рус. пер. «Выше Эвереста». М., Наука, 1983).

Blakeney, A.R. Hinks and the First Everest Expedition 1921. Geographical Journal 136, p. 333 ff.

Bonington Ch., Everest. South West Face. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1973; Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1975.

Bonington Ch., Everest. The Hard Way. Harlow: Longman, 1980.

Boustead H., The Wind of Morning. The autobiography of Hugh Boustead. London: Chatto and Windus, 1971.

Brignone, II Expedici6n en los Himalayas: Everest 1971. – Montana 15 (1971), p. 32 ff.

Bruce C.G., Mount Everest. Der Angriff 1922. Basel: Schwabe, 1924 (Orig.: The Assault on Mount Everest 1922. London: Arnold, 1922).

Bulletin der Indischen Botschaft. Bd. 15, Nr. 7, S. 5 ff.: Everest-Expeditionen.

Carr H. R., The Irvine Diaries: Andrew Irvine and the Enigma of Everest 1924. Reading: Gastons-West Col. Publ., 1979.

Chavalley G., R. Dittert, R. Lembert, Avant-premieres a l'Everest. Paris-Grenoble: Arthaud, 1953 (Engl. ed.: Dittert R., G. Cheval-ley, R. Lambert, Forerunners to Everest. London: Hamilton, 1956).

China Publication, A Photographic Report of the Chomolungma Scientific Expedition 66-68.

Chomolungma – Everest – Karte des Oster-reichischen Alpenvereins. —Jahrbuch des Oster-reichischen Alpenvereins 1957, S. 12.

Clark R. W., Six Great Mountaineers. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1956.

Corbett E. V., Great True Mountain Stories. London: Arco Publications, 1957.

Denman E., Alone to Everest. London: Collins, 1954.

Dias J., The Everest Adventure. Story of the Second Indian Expedition 1962.

Delhi: Publications Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, 1965.

Donoghue, The Ascent of Mount Everest.

Dyhrenfurth G.O., Der dritte Pol. Die Acht-tausender und ihre Trabanten. Miinchen: Nymph-enburger, 1960 (I. Aufl.: Zum dritten Pol. Die Achttausender der Erde. Miinchen, 1952). В рус. пер. «К третьему полюсу». М., Гос. изд-во Геогр. л-ры, 1957.

Eggler A., Gipfel iiber den Wolken. Lhotse und Everest. Bern: Hallwag, 1956. (Engl. ed.: The Everest-Lhotse Adventure. London: Allen und Unwin, 1957).

Enzinck W., Der groBe Berg. G. I. Mallory und der Mount Everest. Recklinhausen: Paulus. 1966 (Orig.: De grote klim).

Evans Ch., Eye on Everest. A sketch book from the great Everest expedition. London: Dob-son, 1955.

Everest – A Guide to the Climb. Chartwell Press, 1953 (Faltkarte).

Everest – Ein Bildbericht der Schweizerischen Stiftung fur alpine Forschungen. Munchen: Nym-phenburger, 1953.

Everest – Yuichiro Miura and the Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition. Tokyo: Bungeishu-nju, 1970.

Fellowes P. F. M. et al., Der erste Flug iiber den Everest. Die Houston-Mount Everest-Expedition 1933. Berlin: Fischer, 1934 (Orig.: First over Everest).

Finch G. I., Der Kampf um den Everest. Leipzig: Brockhaus, 1925; Berlin: Fischer, 1934 (Orig.: Climbing Mount Everest).

Flaig W., Im Kampf um Tschomo-Lungma, den Gipfel der Erde. Stuttgart: Kosmos, 1923.

Foreign Languages Press, Another Ascent of the World's Highest Peak – Chomolungma.

Freshfield D. W., The Conquest of Mount Everest.

Gosvami S. M., Everest: Is It Conquered? Calcutta: Gosvami, 1954. Gregory A., The Picture of Everest. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1954. Gruda K., Mount Everest, auf Leben und Tod. Gottingen: Fischer, 1980.

Habeler P., Der einsame Sieg. Mount Everest 78. Munchen: Goldmann, 1978.

Haston D., In High Places. London: Cassell, 1973.

Hedin S. A., Mount Everest. Leipzig, 1923.

Herrligkoffer К. М., Mount Everest, „Thron der Gotter". Sturm auf den hochsten Gipfel der Welt. Stuttgart-Salzburg-Zurich: Spectrum Ver-lag, 1972.

Herrligkoffer К. М., Mount Everest. 1972. – Himalayan Journal 33, p.

14 ff.

Herrligkoffer К. М., Mount Everest ohne Sauerstoff. Bamberg 1979. Bayerische Verlagsanstalt.

Hiebeler Т., Abenteuer Everest. Durchs Sherpaland zum" Chomolungma. Riischlikon-Zurich-Stuttgart-Wien: Muller, 1974.

Hillary E., Ich stand auf dem Everest. Meine Erstbesteigung mit Sherpa Tensing. Wiesbaden: Brockhaus, 1956 (Orig.: High Adventure. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1955).

Hillary E., Nothing Venture, Nothing Win. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1975.

Hornbein T. F., Everest: The West Ridge. San Francisco 1965, Sierra Club Books. London: Allen and Unwin, 1966.

Howard-Bury С. К., Mount Everest. The Reconnaissance 1921. London: Arnold, 1922. (Dt. Ausg.: Mount Everest. Die Erkundungs-fahrt 1921. Basel: Schwabe, 1922).

Hunt J., Our Everest Adventure. The Pictorial History from Kathmandu to the Summit. Leicester: Brockhampton, 1954.

Hunt J., Mount Everest – Kampf und Sieg. Wien: Ullstein, 1954 (Orig.: The Ascent of Everest. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1953).

Indian Mountaineering Foundation, First Indian Mount Everest Expedition, 1960.

Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Second Indian Expedition to Mount Everest, 1962.

Indian Mountaineering Foundation, The Indian Mount Everest Expedition, 1965.

Japanese Alpine Club (Tokyo), Official Report of the Japanese Everest Expedition, 1969/70.

Japanese Expedition to Mount Everest, 1973.

Kogel, Everestansturm, 1952.

Kohli M. S., Nine Atop Everest. Story of the Indian Ascent. Bombay, etc.: Orient Longmans, 1969.

Link U., Mount Everest. Der Kampf um den Gipfel der Erde. Munchen: Rother, 1953.

Lodge O. J., Why I Believe in Personal Immortality. London: Cassell, 1928.

Lowe G., From Everest to the South Pole. New York: St: Martin's Press, 1961 (First ed.: Because It Is There).

McCallum J. D., Everest Diary (based on the personal diary of Lute Jerstad). Chicago: Fol-let, 1966.

Mclntyre N., Attack on Everest. London: Methuen, 1936.

Malartic Y., Sherpa Tensing's Sieg am Everest. Hamburg: Hoffmann und Campe, 1954 (Orig.: La conquete de l'Everest par le Sherpe Tensing).

Manchester Guardian, Half a Mile from the Summit of Mount Everest. Oct. 20, 1922.

Marshall H., M. Manner am Everest. Die Geschichte seiner Besteigung. Bern: Kummerly und Frei, 1956 (Orig.: Men Against Everest).

Mazeaud P., Everest '78. Paris: Denoel, 1978.

Messner R., Everest. Expedition zum End-punkt. Munchen: BLV, 1978.

Mollier Ch., Everest '74. Le Rendez-vous du del. Paris: Flammarion, 1975.

Monzino G., La Spedizione Italiana all'Eve-rest, 1973.

Morin M., Everest. From the First Attempt to the Final Victory. New York: J. Day Co., 1955.

Morris J., Coronation Everest. An Account by the Special Correspondent of The Times of the Everest Expedition, 1953. London: Faber and Faber, 1958.

Murray W.

H., Das Buch vom Everest. Die Geschichte seiner Besteigungen 1921—1953. Miinchen: Nymphenburger, 1953 (Orig.: The Story of Everest. New York: Dutton, 1953).

Nairz W., Gipfelsieg am Everest. Expedition der Weltrekorde des Alpenvereins 1978. Wien-Munchen-Zurich-Innsbruck: Molden, 1978.

Noel J.B.L., Through Tibet to Everest. London: Arnold, 1927.

Norton E. F., Bis zur Spitze des Mount Everest. Die Besteigung 1924. Basel. Schwabe, 1926 (Orig.: The Fight for Everest, 1924. London: Arnold, 1925).

Noyce W., Das groBte Abenteuer meines Lebens – Triumph am Everest. Wien: Ullstein-Zsolnay, 1954 (Orig.: South Col. A personal story of the ascent of Everest. London: Heine-mann, 1954).

Noyce W., R. Taylor, Everest Is Climbed. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1954.

Ohtsuka, Japanese Mount Everest Expedition 69/70. – Himalayan Journal 31, p. 100 ff.

Perlman E., Y. Miura, The Man Who Skied Down Everest. San Francisco: Harper and Row, 1978.

Programme, Ascent of Everest '53.

Pye D.R., George Leigh Mallory—a Memoir. London: Milford, 1927.

Ridgeway R., The Boldest Dream. The Story of Twelve Who Climbed Mount Everest. New York: Harcourt-Brace-Jovanovich, 1979.

Roberts D., I'll Climb Mount Everest Alone. The Story of Maurice Wilson. London: Hale, 1975.

Robertson D.A., George Mallory. London: Faber, 1969.

Roch A., Everest 1952. Geneve-Paris: Jeheber, 1952.

Rudolph F., Chomolungma und ihre Kinder Berlin: Sportverlag, 1978 (в рус. пер. «Джомолунгма и ее дети». М., Радуга, 1982).

Ruttledge H., Everest 1933. London: Hod-der and Stoughton, 1934.

Ruttledge H., Everest. The Unfinished Adventure. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1937.

Ruttledge H., Attack on Everest. New York: McBridge, 1935.

Sayre W. W., Vier gegen den Everest. Die Geschichte der neuesten Kleinexpeditionen iiber die Nordflanke. Riischlikon-Zurich-Stuttgart-Wien: Muller, 1965 (Orig.: Four Against Everest 1962. London: Barker, 1964).

Schweizerische Stiftung fur Alpine Forschun-gen (Zurich), Everest – die Schweizerische Expedition, 1952.

Seaver G., Francis Younghusband. Explorer and Mystic. London: Murray, 1952.

Shipton E. E., The Mount Everest Reconnaissance 1935. Himalayan Journal 7 (1936), p. 1-13; Alpine Journal 252, p. 1-14.

Shipton E.E., The Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1951. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1952.

Shipton E. E., Up That Mountain. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1943.

Shipton E. E., The True Book About Everest. London: Muller, 1955.

Shipton E. E., Mountain Conquest. London: Cassell, 1967.

Shipton E. E., That Untravelled World: an Autobiography. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1969.

Singh G., Lure of Everest. Story of the First Indian Everest Expedition. Delhi: Publications Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, 1961.

Smythe F. S., The Adventures of a Mountaineer. London: Dent, 1940.

Smythe F. S., Camp Six. An Account of the 1933 Mount Everest Expedition. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1937, 1941.

Somerveli Т. Н., After Everest. The Experiences of a Mountaineer and Medical Missionary. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1936.

Steele P., Als Arzt am Everest. Miinchen: Nymphenburger, 1974 (Orig.: Doctor on Everest).

Styles F. S., Mallory of Everest. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1967.

Styles F. S., First on the Summits. London: Gollancz, 1970.

Styles F. S., On Top of the World. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1967.

Tenzing Norgay, After Everest: an Autobiography as Told to M. Barnes. London: Allen and Unwin, 1977.

Thiir-Hanke H., Sieg iiber den Everest. Wien: Andermann, 1953.

Tilman H. W., Mount Everest 1938. Cambridge: University Press, 1948.

Ullman J. R. et al., Americans on Everest. The Official Account of the Ascent Led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Philadelphia, etc.: Lippin-cott, 1963.

Ullman J. R., Kingdom of Adventure: Everest. New York: Sloane, 1947.

Ullman J. R., Man of Everest. The Autobiography of Tenzing Told to J. R. Ullman. London, etc.: Harrop, 1955. (Dt. Ausg.: Der Tiger vom Everest. Die Autobiographie Sherpa Tenzings. Wiesbaden: Rhein. Verl. Anst., 1956) В русск. пер. «Тигр снегов». М., «Московский рабочий», 1982.

Unsworth W., Everest. London: Allen Lane, 1981.

Wibberley L. P., The Epics of Everest. London: Faber and Faber, 1955.

Younghusband F., Der Heldensang vom Mount Everest. Basel: Schwabe, 1928 (Orig.: The Epic of Mount Everest. London, Arnold, 1926).

Younghusband F., Der Himalaya ruft. Berlin: Union, 1937 (Orig.: Everest—the Challenge. London: Thomas Nelson and Son, 1936).

 

 

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